#284 Three Goats Heads, Oxford : 1998 to 2021

This will only be a short entry, but it is a proper pub and well worth a visit...especially if you like Sam Smith's.

Our first visit was on the evening of Saturday 5th September 1998 and, as it was quite late, this was my only shot of the pub.

I have little recollection of the pub other than I remembered it for more than just it's unusual name. I recalled that it was a good, proper pub, but that's about all!

So, on our recent visit to Oxford, the Three Goats Heads was one of the pubs I wanted  to revisit. However, I had no idea where it was located, but in this day and age of Google Maps, that wasn't a problem. We'd finished lunch in the Four Candles (#263) and, after consulting the map app on my phone, I realised that it was very close to us. This how it looked on the rainy afternoon of Friday 21st May 2021.
 

This was the first Saturday that indoor opening of pubs had been allowed, but it was very quiet inside. (Probably because of the cold, wet weather, a lack of tourists/shoppers and a reluctance to go out!)

I'm not a fan of Old Brewery Bitter, so I had a pint of the Double Four Lager, which was OK, but it's no Carling! The décor was typical of other Sam Smith's pubs I've been to - dark wood and lots of framed photos - not particularly to my taste as it all seems to be a bit too regimented. (I like the more random, higgledy-piggledy look of old school boozers!) Still, there are many worse.

We chatted a bit to the landlady who informed us that it has been a Sam Smith's pub since the mid 1980's. 

If you can find it, the Three Goats Heads is well worth a visit, especially if you're a Sam Smith's fan!

Back in the Saddle in Selly Oak

Eleven days after the much vaunted re-opening of pubs in England and I finally had my first pint in a  pub last night. I'm probably the last of my pub/beer blogging colleagues to get back in the saddle, but in normal times I'm not a particularly frequent pub goer, anyway.

 

We did try to get to the Country Girl in Selly Oak last Friday, but it was fully booked for the evening. So, it became our first Wednesday outing to the Country Girl in many, many years.

 

The first thing you notice is that the front door is closed and entry is via the back door that leads to the car park. This is also the only exit. There were notices on all of the outdoor tables about social distancing.

 

At the door we were greeted by one of the bar staff who confirmed our booking (done via the Ember Inn app), shown the hand sanitiser and then led to our table. It was really noticeable how well spaced out the tables were making the maintaining of social distancing quiite easy.

 

Service was at the bar, but with a queueing system to maintain social distancing. It took a while for my first order ("Two pints of Carling, please!") as there was only one person serving...and the bloke in front of me was ordering meals for his table.

 

There was no real ale although the bloke in front said there was Worthington. (Maybe CAMRA do still have their work cut out for them if the general populace believes that Worthington Creamflow is real ale!). When I asked the bar maid about this she said that, at first, the pub had no say in what they actually got, but did manage to get their quota of Carling increased (phew!).

 

To me, the first pint didn't taste quite right, but by the fifth it was perfectly fine! We left at about 10:30pm and we were the last out!

Country Girl, Selly Oak (Post Lockdown July 2020)

So, what was the experience like? Remarkably civilised. Once drinking and talking we disappeared into our own 'bubble' and from that perspective it felt perfectly normal (and the music was so low you couldn't tell it was on most of the time!). But, in reality you have to wonder how long pubs can survive on such small numbers - we saw 20 - 30 people max all evening (but to compensate it was a skeleton crew of staff on.)

 

I'll be setting out on a couple of canal trips in the coming weeks (fingers crossed) and that should give me a better perspective on what this 'new normal' is like and an inkling as to how sustainable it really is.

Bimbling Around Beertown for a Burton [Re]Union

As usual I'm the last to report on the most recent Beer & Pubs Forum Proper Days Out.

There are two entries from Paul's Beer & Travel Blog here and here, there are also two more from The Pub Curmudgeon here and here and even Life After Football has beaten me to it here. But that's how it should be...someone has to be last, and it may as well be me!

 The first port of call on a Proper Pub Day Out, before even getting on a train, is of course the local café and a hearty breakfast! This is where you'll find me most days between 12:30 and 1:30pm! Then it was a short walk to the station and an easy, uneventful journey to Burton-upon-Trent.

Our meeting place was The Devonshire Arms, but I was a bit early (a rarity for me!). This did give me a few minutes to get a picture of the Cooper's Tavern in the bright morning sunlight even though we wouldn't return until early evening.

 By the time I returned, most of the 'gang' had arrived and were odering their first pints of Bass for the day - I chose a pint of Dark Star American Pale Ale which was very good. The group at this stage consisted of Pub Curmudgeon, Stafford Paul, Wickingman and his friend Chris (neither of whom I'd met before - but they turned out to be as friendly and as nice as everyone else I've met on these days out so far!). It wasn't long before Sheffield Hatter and Paul Bailey joined us to complete the set.

No sooner had the gang assembled than we split up! The more athletic amongst us headed for the Derby Inn (which if I was fitter I'd've loved to visit), Sheffield Hatter headed for some other pubs he wanted to sample and the remainder of us headed for the National Brewing Centre...but not before having a half of Bass, which was also good.

I've been to The Devonshire Arms before and it was just as good as I remembered it and would recommend it to anyone who visits Burton...a proper pub with rolls in cling film on the bar!

It was then quite a stroll to the National Brewery Centre, but it gave us time to appreciate the scale of brewing in Burton (even now when a lot has disappeared!) and the architecture of the town.

The Brewery Tap was pleasant enough and the food was good (a portion of chips was all I needed after my earlier breakfast!) but the others had more substantial fare. All three of us had pints of Charrington IPA, produced by the Heritage Brewing Company, which we all agreed was very good. The breakaway group caught us up here (having thoroughly enjoyed the Derby Inn) and shortly we left for the Burton Bridge Inn, which wasn't too far away.

Another lovely, cosy pub but it was lacking in a bit of atmosphere at the time we were there  I had half a pint of Golden Delicious which was pleasant. The owners are trying to sell the pub and brewery which possibly accounts for the lacklustre atmosphere, but it is still a very good pub!

Then we were off again for a long stroll to The Elms. Over the River Trent (which was still in flood, although it was on the way down) and up a gentle incline to find one of the best looking pubs you'll find anywhere.

Inside it was just as good (after risking life and limb to cross the road!) and, considering it was mid afternoon, the place was very lively with a wide range of folk (and assorted dogs) in attendance. The beer selection wasn't to my particular taste (it was too early for a pint of Carling!) so I tried the Reverend James even after being warned it was darker than my normal choices. It was as described, but enjoyable nonetheless (although I'd not fancy a full session of it).

It was here that the group split up again with the more athletic members heading for Stapenhill (Barley Mow, I think!) and the more 'built for comfort rather than speed' members calling a taxi to our next stop, The Dog. A wise move as the newer bridge crossing back over the Trent is even longer than the old one!

The Dog is a Black Country Ales pub with a wide selection (some would say too wide - 11 cask plus at least 5 craft!) of ales. However, my pint of Salopian Safe Room was excellent.

Then we were off again for a 10 minute amble through the town centre to the most famed of Burton's pubs...the Cooper's Tavern.

This was from the morning as it was dusk by the time we arrived there. This is another pub I've visited before and it was just as wonderful as on the previous visit. Yet again I eschewed the Bass and had a pint of Joules Blonde which was good.

All too soon it was time to move on again to our final destination The Roebuck Inn, but a couple of our group went for a curry first!

I couldn't resisit taking a 'romantic' photo of the moon over my beloved Carling tanks...the real beer of Burton! The Roebuck Inn was just around the corner.

Of all the pubs we visited, this is the one I've been in on most occasions and it didn't disappoint. As I'd been on the real ale all day, my mouth needed something a little more refreshing; something to cleanse the palate; something local...there was only one choice...a pint of Carling, please! It was everything I expected and may have been my pint of the day! (Only kidding, the Salopian Safe Room just pipped it!)

It was here that Life After Football made his debut on a Proper Day Out. And what a sparkling debut it was, despite none of us having met him in the flesh it soon felt as though we'd known him for ages. He was on a tight schedule, but he had time to get me another pint of Carling...and all too soon it was time to get the train home. (Apart from Stafford Paul who was going on to see the up-and-coming folk star Julie Felix...age 81!)

Another sucessful Proper Day Out, meeting old friends and new, visiting some great pubs, a good variety of beers, excellent conversation (as ever) and a beautifully sunny day.

Let's hope that our next outing on 24th April to Chester doesn't fall foul of the current, virus inspired, madness and that pubs are still allowed to open. 

#019 Dead Wax (aka Wagon & Horses), Deritend : 1998 to 2020

The Eastside of Birmingham continues to evolve and a pub that was unchanged for many years suddenly got a complete makeover. This is how the Wagon & Horses looked in 1998 and 2011: -

As I was 'retracing my steps' to photograph these pubs I rediscovered the Wagon & Horses, almost by accident! I'd just done the Forge Tavern (#012) and was driving to see what else there was still around and I came across this lovely back street boozer. At first I thought that I'd missed it in 1998, but not so! I had indeed captured it eleven years ago.

This is the eighth in my 'Birmingham Eastside' series.

At the time, I thought that I should actually visit for a drink some time soon as it looked like a decent, 'proper' pub. But, I never did. It's not on the way to anywhere and so I was never passing and as the years passed forgot all about it!

And here it is in 2011, almost completely unchanged...except the signage and detailed paintwork (and the satellite dish!). Since I took the photo, I've actually been in and had a pint. The front bar is small and there seemed to be a reasonable choice of beer on offer - but as I drink Carling I didn't pay too much attention to the rest of the 'swill'! There was also a chocolate cake on the bar - 99p per slice - not something you see too often these days! There was a larger back room, but we didn't venture in there.

The reason that the Wagon & Horses has survived is that it is now a music venue as well with its own MySpace page. On the day we were there the Wagon & Horses was hosting a marathon charity event of live music that started in the afternoon and was due to end in the wee small hours. When we arrived the bar was relatively empty, but within a few minutes the place filled up with the next band and their followers.

For a more historical perspective this link has much more information.

Because of the unchanging external appearance I haven't taken any more recent pictures of the Wagon & Horses even though we visited it on our Proper Pubs Day Out in July 2018 and it was then still unchanged.



However, I was doing a craft market at the nearby Arches Project and noticed that the pub had undergone the most radical transformation into Dead Wax. At the time, I didn't take a picture assuming that I'd have plenty of time to report back on it later, as it is a pub so far off the main part of Digbeth that no-one would notice for a while. How wrong I was! Within two weeks of me noticing the change Life After Football had already been there and written it up!



So, a couple of weeks ago I finally got around to taking a photo.

As you can see it is one of the more radical makeovers that I've seen and reported on! It is good to see that it has a future and that someone has invested in the business.

Unsurprisingly, I took the opportunity to render Dead Wax in Photo Digital Art style as well!

Here's hoping that it will succeed, but it's unlikely that I'll be visiting any time soon as it's not really my kind of place!

A Passage from The Indian Brewery

As part of my desire to branch out (a bit) from my normal blogging, here's another attempt to show my Saturday escapades in and around Birmingham.

We'd decided to have a Saturday evening in Birmingham city centre to meet with some friends from out of town. The plan was to start at the Indian Brewery at Snow Hill and have an Italian meal just around the corner. What could possibly go wrong?

Although we knew that the Indian Brewery also did street food as part of its offering there would surely be a separate bar area just for drinkers...there wasn't! When we arrived at just before 7pm there was a queue of about 15 people waiting for drinks and nowhere to sit as all the tables were occupied or reserved! It was laid out in typically modern brewery tap style with lots of bench seating...but it isn't a pub...it is a GASTROPUB masquerading as a brewery tap house. We left without sampling any of the (seemingly) fine beers that were on offer.

We decided to move on to the Queens Arms in Newhall Street...at least that's a proper boozer!

At this early hour (just after 7pm) it wasn't very busy apart from a very noisy table of people. They weren't obnoxious, they weren't even that rowdy, but every so often they'd become really LOUD, not helped by the very echoing sound of an almost empty pub. So, after a pint (Foster's for me!), we moved on. ("Miserable old gits"?...Us?...How very dare you!!)

Our next port of call was Saint Paul's House which is on St Paul's Square and used to be known as The Rope Walk.

This is more of an eatery than a pub, but at least there is plenty of space if you just want a drink and, with a bit of shuffling and rearangement of already seated drinkers, we could all sit together. After another pint of lager (Carling, I think!) it was time for the restaurant.

Cucina Rustica is an upmarket Italian that we'd not been to for a good number of years. The food was good, the Peroni cold and the red wine quaffable (and the bill was less than I was expecting!)...so, all was finally right with the world again.

Back out into the drizzly night, passing the obligatory Brummie beggar, we headed back to the Queens Arms for a final pint. The noisy crowd had gone and the pub was fairly busy (for 11:30pm!). This time I eschewed the lager and had a pint of Wye Valley IPA served in a proper beer glass - the first time that has happened to me in many a long year!

So, the evening ended well...apart from our taxi initially being despatched to the Queens Arms in Macdonald Street (which is on the other side of the city centre...and has been closed for at least five years!) but we got home safe and sound which is all that really matters!

#228 The Broughton Arms, Rode Heath, Cheshire : 1999 to 2016

Rode Heath is a small village by the section of the Trent & Mersey Canal colloquially known as 'Heartbreak Hill'. This is the long rise from Wheelock up to the summit level at Kidsgrove and Stoke, more properly known as the Cheshire Locks - just the 22 to work through.

Needless to say, it isn't a route we often take and, wjth the demise of the Romping Donkey at Hassall Green, The Broughton Arms offers welcome respite from the arduous passage and the first time we stopped there was at lunchtime on Saturday 4th September 1999.

We were heading down the locks and it provided a very pleasant lunch with some cooling Carling (or maybe a Foster's), perfect for a hot day. Inside it is quite a large pub with a large garden; a very popular spot on a summer's day.

Our next stop there was again at lunchtime on Friday 13th September 2002, this time heading up the locks.

The pub was largely unchanged, but several tables had appeared in the car park.

It wasn't long before we returned for another lunchtime session on Sunday 3rd September 2006.

Again largely unchanged and another very pleasant lunchtime stop. (The seating in the car park appeared to have disappeared again!)

We didn't travel this way again until the evening of Tuesday 16th August 2016, this time there were some changes.

Although the exterior had been given a complete makeover, inside it still felt the same as before as it successfully treads the fine line between being a pub and a restaurant. Although we didn't eat there, we did return for a few pints and a win in the quiz (on a tie break!) We did stay on for lunch the next day when the pub was packed again as it was a lovely sunny day.

We will very probably stop by next time we're passing...and the next time...and here's the link if you fancy a stop as well!

Good News & Bad News from Stoke-on-Trent

I know! You get no pubs from me for a couple of weeks, then two come along at once!!

#208 The Bird in Hand, Etruria, Stoke-on-Trent : 1999 to 2016 (RIP)

First, the bad news. This is a pub that I don't think I ever went in, but it is one we've failed to find on several visits!

This picture was taken on the way back to our boat after a bit of a pub crawl around Hanley on Friday 3rd September 1999. It was closed by then...and we probably couldn't have drunk any more. But, we'd be able to visit it next time we were in the area!

Sadly our optimism was unfounded (and our sense of direction let us down, again) so that we didn't pass by until the evening of Saturday 26th March 2016.

The Bird in Hand is no more, now it is an Islamic community centre - a fate suffered by many pubs in inner city areas.

#209 Shoulder of Mutton Inn, Shelton, Stoke-on-Trent : 2011 to 2016

This is the good news story. On the evening of Friday 2nd September 2011 we stumbled across this magnificent looking back street pub.

At the time it looked as though the Shoulder of Mutton was gone forever, but no, this is what we found on Saturday 26th March 2016.

It was alive and well and open for business; so we had a quick pint. Inside it is all that you'd expect of an 'old school' back street boozer. The Carling was nice and cold, but there was no real ale (although there was a hand pump!). More information can be found here.  

#019 Wagon & Horses, Deritend : 1998 to 2011

As I was 'retracing my steps' to photograph these pubs I rediscovered the Wagon & Horses, almost by accident! I'd just done the Forge Tavern (#012) and was driving to see what else there was still around and I came across this lovely back street boozer. At first I thought that I'd missed it in 1998, but not so! I had indeed captured it eleven years ago.

This is the eighth in my 'Birmingham Eastside' series.

At the time, I thought that I should actually visit for a drink some time soon as it looked like a decent, 'proper' pub. But, I never did. It's not on the way to anywhere and so I was never passing and as the years passed forgot all about it!

And here it is in 2011, almost completely unchanged...except the signage and detailed paintwork (and the satellite dish!). Since I took the photo, I've actually been in and had a pint. The front bar is small and there seemed to be a reasonable choice of beer on offer - but as I drink Carling I didn't pay too much attention to the rest of the 'swill'! There was also a chocolate cake on the bar - 99p per slice - not something you see too often these days! There was a larger back room, but we didn't venture in there.

The reason that the Wagon & Horses has survived is that it is now a music venue as well with its own MySpace page. On the day we were there the Wagon & Horses was hosting a marathon charity event of live music that started in the afternoon and was due to end in the wee small hours. When we arrived the bar was relatively empty, but within a few minutes the place filled up with the next band and their followers.

For a more historical perspective this link has much more information.