Canal Cruising in a COVID World (Part 1)

Recently we undertook our first canal pub crawl cruise in the 'new normal', post pandemic era.

The good news is that we never failed to get a drink in the 20 or so pubs we visited, but planning in advance was required especially for weekend stops!

What was also remarkable was that every pub followed the guidelines differently - some very strict...and some quite relaxed (in a couple, apart from the signs and the hand sanitiser, it was almost back to normal - people standing at the bar, shaking hands and hugging also!)

We started at The Blue Lias on the Grand Union Canal at Stockton (our regular haunt, the Two Boats, not opening until 4th August!)

Here there was no need to book, but a long one-way system was in operation and food (from a limited menu) was served in polystyrene takeaway trays. We were the only people who sat inside. The lager was cold and the food was just what we wanted!

Next stop was Warwick for the evening where both The Railway and The Roebuck were both accommodating with no need to queue. Normal service in the Railway and table service in the Roebuck. In between, we managed to get a very good Italian meal from our go-to restaurant in Warwick, Piccolino's!

Next day was a Saturday (with predicted good weather) so I'd prebooked The Hatton Arms for lunch as it is the only pub nearby after the slog of Hatton Locks!

This is a large gastro pub with a large outside area to exploit as well as the pub terraces which are now covered and protected from the elements by perspex screens. There was only one way into (and out of) the pub, via the front entrance.

We were a bit early, but our table was available so we sat down and enjoyed a pleasant couple of hours of, essentially, restaurant service. All very efficient as they had plenty of staff on.

For the evening we made our first return for a few years to The Navigation at Lapworth, which I'd pre-booked.

Again, there was a one way system in place and the number of tables in the bar reduced, but again, most people were outside.Bar service for drinks and table service for food, so not too different from normal.

Next day and Sunday lunch was pre-booked at the Fleur-de-Lys in Lowsonford, just a short trip down the Stratford Canal.

Again, strict enforcement of the guidelines was in operation requiring an extra long walk for pedestrians to get into the pub from the car park entrance! They were running a limited menu and drinks range, but the lager was cold so we were happy!

In the evening we got as far as Wilmcote, normally a two-pub village. Unfortunately, the Mason's Arms was closed and up for sale. This was not really a surprise as we'd been expecting it for at least 10 years. As for the Mary Arden Hotel, we weren't sure if it was open and, with it being a Sunday evening, whether we were too late for food. So, it was taxi time and a short trip into Stratford-upon-Avon for the evening.

Our first choice, The Garrick, was closed so we headed straight for the Wetherspoons. This was the first time that we'd had to queue up outside a pub, but we were soon inside The Golden Bee after taking care of the administrative chores.

After all the hype, we didn't have to order via the app and it was all fairly normal, going up to the bar to order food and drinks. After eating and a couple of pints we decided to go for a bit of a wander and have another pint in a different pub.

What a mistake!

We left at about 9:45pm and got to the White Swan/Dirty Duck just before 10pm to be told that they were closing. We knew that Encore was open till 10:30pm so headed there. At just after 10pm we were turned away because there wasn't room...there was! The Red Lion had closed at 10pm, so we headed back to Wetherspoons as they closed at 11pm...but...unbeknownst to us...they don't allow anyone in after 10pm. So we were turned away!

The moral of the story? Don't leave a pub close to closing time in the current climate expecting to get a last drink elsewhere, because you probably won't get it!

The thing that really got to me though was the smugness with which we were turned away (not the Red Lion) which will make me very reluctant to step through their doors once/if this crisis is over! Two early 60's blokes looking for a last drink wasn't going to cause anyone any heartache and yet they turned us away with repressed glee without any form of apology (or even apologetic tone!). Still...lesson learned!

Until next time!

Is Long Itchington THE Most Expensive Place for Blackcurrrant & Soda?

I don't normally use this blog for a rant, but today I'm going to make an exception. I've just returned from a two week canal cruise around the Midlands (essentially the Warwickshire Ring) and an incident at our first lunchtime stop prompted me to compile the information and write this post.

Over the last few years I've taken to drinking pints of Blackcurrant & Soda Water at lunchtimes on our boating holidays, mainly because, quite frankly, I'm getting old and can't take my drink at lunchtime. (I still drink in the evenings and, on this trip, had the equivalent of 74 pints of Carling!).

Our first stop was at the Two Boats a lovely canalside pub at Long Itchington that we've visited many times in the past (#100).

Two Boats, Long Itchington - 27th September 2014

As usual the food was very good, but I was charged £2.10p for a pint of Blackcurrant & Soda! When I queried this I was told that this was the cheapest available in Long Itchington and that The Cuttle Inn (across the canal) charged £3.40p. If it had been bottles of soda water I could've understood it, but the soda water is on tap and is, in essence, carbonated tap water. Upon further investigation it transpired that if I'd ordered a pint of soda water it would also have cost £2.10p as shots of blackcurrant are free in the Two Boats. So, as I tried to build a drink that would cost less, the (I assume) landlord accused me of "pissing him about" which was the trigger point for compiling a price list of Blackcurrant and Soda prices and the writing of this post.

I can now confirm that, having drunk pints of Blackcurrant & Soda in 16 different pubs, the most expensive is £2.10p per pint in the Two Boats at Long Itchington, a Charles Wells establishment.

The least expensive pint of Blackcurrant & Soda was just £0.40p, the location of which I will reveal at the end of this post. This is a massive range of pricing and in this day and age when many pubs are struggling I would have expected them to want to encourage drivers by offering cheaper soft drinks, but some establishments seem to want to take the profiteering route!

The second most expensive pub was the George & Dragon in Stoke Golding at £1.90p per pint.

George & Dragon, Stoke Golding - 7th October 2014

I'm reluctant to be too critical as I was originally told that the price was £1.15p, but then corrected to £1.90p, so £1.15p might be the actual price! The George & Dragon is now run by the Church End Brewery 

The 'prize' for third most expensive goes to the Hatton Arms near Warwick at £1.80p a pint.

Hatton Arms, Hatton - 28th September 2014

This was the day after our visit to the Two Boats and really demonstrated how ridiculous the pricing is in Long Itchington. The Hatton Arms (formerly The Waterman) is now really an upmarket restaurant and so I wasn't surprised at the £1.80p price tag for a pint of Blackcurrant & Soda, whereas the Two Boats is just a standard country pub with a great location.

Stratford-upon-Avon is a tourist destination and so you'd expect higher prices and the Dirty Duck/Black Swan didn't disappoint at £1.65p per pint.

Dirty Duck/Black Swan, Stratford-upon-Avon - 30th September 2014

The Dirty Duck is part of the Old English Inns chain, part of the Greene King group and is a pub we've visited many times in the past (#033).

Next on the list is the Old Royal Oak at Hillmorton also at £1.65p a pint.

Old Royal Oak, Hillmorton - 9th October 2014

The Old Royal Oak in Hillmorton (near Rugby) is a Hungry Horse pub (also part of Greene King) aimed at families, so I was surprised at the price. However, talking with another barman revealed that £1.65p is for 3 shots of blackcurrant and that if 2 shots is enough, the price was £1.10p! It is a pub we've visited on quite a few occasions as well (#077).

The next two pubs offer an interesting perspective on the whole soft drinks in pubs issue. BOTH of these pubs charged £1.50p for a pint of Blackcurrant & Soda.

The Fleur de Lys in Lowsonford has, for quite a number of years, been more of a restaurant and I've reported on it previously (#026).

Fleur de Lys, Lowsonford - 29th September 2014

This was the third day of our trip and at £1.50p a pint the price was dropping from the first day, but still a bit expensive for a pub where the majority have to drive to get to it.

Also coming in at £1.50p a pint is the Swan & Mitre in Aston (Birmingham).

Swan & Mitre, Aston - 4th October 2014

It was a rainy Saturday morning and we'd negotiated the Farmers Bridge and Aston flights of locks. It isn't a place we'd normally stop, but the next viable, regular stopping places were at least two hours away! At first glance it was a potential disaster. It was a match day and Aston Villa were at home, so the pub was only letting in people with passes. Fortunately for us it was a 5:30pm kick-off and after asking nicely we were let in. Inside the Swan & Mitre was like stepping back in time, the bar was just like a proper old time Birmingham pub! A real basic pub where the only food was a choice of Ham & Tomato or Cheese and Onion rolls and the regular range of snacks - perfect for our needs! And yet, a basic boozer like this still charged £1.50p for a pint of Blackcurrant & Soda, the same as an upmarket country pub/restaurant...go figure!

Next up, at £1.40p a pint is The Anchor Inn at Hartshill.

The Anchor Inn, Hartshill - 6th October 2014

The Anchor Inn at Hartshill is an Everard's pub and I've reported on it before (#027). It is a lovely canalside pub and is aimed at both drinkers, diners and families in the extensive garden. You would expect them to charge a lower price for soft drinks especially as most people have to drive to get there.

Then, at £1.30p is The Garrick Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon.

The Garrick Inn, Stratford-upon-Avon - 30th September 2014

The Garrick Inn, which I've also reported on previously (#020), is also part of Greene King's Old English Inns brand, but charges less than the Dirty Duck!

Just down the road is The Windmill Inn which is yet another Greene King pub!

The Windmill Inn, Stratford-upon-Avon - 30th September 2014

Despite being situated between the Dirty Duck and The Garrick Inn, at £1.00p a pint, The Windmill Inn comes in as the lowest price for Blackcurrant & Soda of the three Greene King pubs in Stratford that I went into on that day.

I do believe that £1.00p per pint for Blackcurrant & Soda to be a reasonable price and that once it goes much above this constitutes a rip-off. So, onwards to the pubs that offered the best value.

First up is the Wharf Tavern in Hockley Heath at £0.80p a pint.

Wharf Tavern, Hockley Heath - 2nd October 2014

The Wharf Tavern is a pub I've reported on in the past (#083) that has been extensively refurbished since our last visit in 2011. The refurbishment is good leaving the Wharf Tavern with the happy balance between being a pub and serving lots of good pub food...and reasonably priced Blackcurrant & Soda!

Then comes the Three Tuns Inn in Fazeley at £0.70p per pint.

Three Tuns Inn, Fazeley - 5th October 2014

The Three Tuns is a pub we've visited on many occasions, but I've yet to report on it here. It has a great location, backing onto the Coventry Canal at Fazeley Junction (with the Birmingham & Fazeley Canal). It is a proper pub that has never let us down on our many visits.

Next, we have a tie with two pubs offering a pint of Blackcurrant & Soda at £0.60p. First was The Woodman in Birmingham.

The Woodman, Birmingham - 3rd October 2014

The Woodman has recently been refurbished to restore it to its former glory, very successfully in my opinion. It is a pub I've reported on in the past (#056) and one that I'm very glad to see open and thriving again.

The second £0.60p pub is The Greyhound at Hawkesbury Junction on the outskirts of Coventry.

The Greyhound, Hawkesbury Junction - 8th October 2014

The Greyhound is a traditional canalside pub with an ideal location at Hawkesbury Junction where the Coventry and Oxford Canals meet. It is always busy for both food and drink and, unlike many pubs that have great locations and don't need to try to be good, The Greyhound still offers reasonably priced food and drink at a high quality.

Only two more to go, and just missing out on the 'star prize' is the Navigation Inn at Wootton Wawen with Blackcurrant & Soda at just £0.45p a pint.

Navigation Inn, Wootton Wawen - 1st October 2014

Despite its canalside location (picture taken from the aqueduct over the main A3400 road) in the affluent Warwickshire village of Wootton Wawen, the Navigation Inn is struggling, mainly because in all the years we've been visiting it there has been no change to its interior and it can no longer compete with the many gastropubs that have sprouted up in the past 10 - 15 years in the area. The food is still good and the pub provides the sort of dishes that I like (i.e. standard, traditional pub grub), but that isn't what sells these days. I fear that without major investment, the Navigation will be gone next time we're passing that way.

Finally (and thanks for staying to the end!) we come to the 'winner', at £0.40p for a pint of Blackcurrant & Soda it is The Windsor in Birmingham.

The Windsor, Birmingham - 3rd October 2014

The Windsor is a pub I hadn't been into for years. It is now part of M&B's Oaktree brand of pubs and offers Wetherspoon type of service quite successfully as the pub was very busy for a mid afternoon by the time we got there.

So, we made it to the end and I have to conclude that Long Itchington must indeed be THE most expensive place in the UK for Blackcurrant & Soda prices if the Two Boats is offering the lowest price at £2.10p per pint. Is it a rip off? I'll let you be the judge of that! 

#081 Black Swan, Henley-in-Arden, Warks : 2001 to 2011

The Black Swan in Henley-in-Arden is one of those pubs that I'd visited quite a few times in the 1980's, but not as a part of any of our canal trips. I always remembered it as a pleasant, traditional country pub that did food and served Davenports beers.

Our first canal related visit was on Sunday 15th April 2001 in the evening. We'd moored up for the night at Preston Bagot only to find that the only pub within walking distance of the cut, The Crabmill, closed at 6pm on Sundays. So, after a quick call to Henley Cars we found ourselves outside the Black Swan.

It was Easter Sunday and as I recall they weren't doing food, but this was more likely because it was between owners/tenants.

We were back again the next year when we visited the Black Swan twice! the first time was on the evening of Friday 29th March 2002. We'd moored at Lowsonford for the evening after filling up with water, but we didn't fancy a night in the Fleur-de-Lys (#026 in this series), mainly because it was more like a restaurant, so we got a taxi to Henley.

The pub was largely unchanged on the outside, except that the To Let sign had gone and the blackboard was advertising food. I'm fairly sure we didn't eat there, opting instead for a curry later on.

We were back again, somewhat unexpectedly, on the lunchtime of Monday 1st April 2002. We'd moored at Lowsonford, opposite the Fleur-de-Lys where we'd intended to have lunch. We only wanted a sandwich, but they'd run out of bread!! Even taking into account that it was Easter Monday this was still a piss poor performance from such a highly rated establishment. So, we upped sticks and caught a cab to Henley where we found ourselves outside the Black Swan yet again.

We had a very pleasant lunchtime snack at a very reasonable price!

Our next visit to the Black Swan wasn't until the evening of Friday 21st March 2008 (Good Friday). Most years we pay a visit to Henley-in-Arden, on our way to Stratford-upon-Avon, but we'd neglected the Black Swan for a few years for no particular reason.

Although this isn't a great photo, you can still make out that there is little change in the exterior decoration of the pub apart from the hanging sign which is new. Again this was the first stop of the night and we didn't eat there.

The next visit was on the evening of Friday 2nd April 2010 (Good Friday again!).

Still no real change and we didn't eat here...again!

Our last visit was on the evening of Friday 29th April 2011.

Finally, some changes - both the wall sign and hanging sign have changed. Inside was largely the same, but I'm fairly sure that it had been refurbished whilst maintaining the overall style as before. Pictures of how it looks now can be seen here.)

#026 Fleur-de-Lys, Lowsonford, Warks : 1996 to 2011

The first time I visited the Fleur-de-Lys was sometime in the 1980's and made occasional visits subsequently by car as it was a very good country pub. It is also the original home of the Fleur-de-Lys pie, but the rights were sold on many years ago. Once we had moved our boat back down to the Midlands the Fleur-de-Lys became a regular stop on our annual canal trip to Stratford. The first of these was on the evening of Thursday 4th April 1996.

As we've visited almost every year since it would be fair to say that externally, little has changed, but it has gone from being a country pub that did good meals to become, essentially a restaurant that serves beer! 

Here it is at lunchtime on Easter Sunday 23rd April 2000.

Below is from 2002. This year I do remember! We visited at lunchtime on Easter Monday 1st April 2002 and they'd run out of bread, so we couldn't get a sandwich! We caught a taxi to Henley-in-Arden instead! It was also around this time that it became a completely non-smoking establishment, long before the nationwide ban came into force.

This shows the view of the pub garden from the canal.

Next we move on to lunchtime on Easter Monday 17th April 2006. Not much has changed apart from the exotic plantation at the front!

We visit every year on our trip to Stratford and back, not because we love the place (far from it) but because there are only a limited number of pubs along the way and the food is good, if a bit pricey!

Here it is at lunchtime on Monday 2nd May 2011. (This year we travelled a little later to take advantage of the Royal Wedding Bank Holiday!), both as the original photo I took and as converted into 'art'!

It is interesting to note that the exotic plantation is looking a bit threadbare with only the mini palm tree surviving.