Canal Cruising in a COVID World (Part 1)

Recently we undertook our first canal pub crawl cruise in the 'new normal', post pandemic era.

The good news is that we never failed to get a drink in the 20 or so pubs we visited, but planning in advance was required especially for weekend stops!

What was also remarkable was that every pub followed the guidelines differently - some very strict...and some quite relaxed (in a couple, apart from the signs and the hand sanitiser, it was almost back to normal - people standing at the bar, shaking hands and hugging also!)

We started at The Blue Lias on the Grand Union Canal at Stockton (our regular haunt, the Two Boats, not opening until 4th August!)

Here there was no need to book, but a long one-way system was in operation and food (from a limited menu) was served in polystyrene takeaway trays. We were the only people who sat inside. The lager was cold and the food was just what we wanted!

Next stop was Warwick for the evening where both The Railway and The Roebuck were both accommodating with no need to queue. Normal service in the Railway and table service in the Roebuck. In between, we managed to get a very good Italian meal from our go-to restaurant in Warwick, Piccolino's!

Next day was a Saturday (with predicted good weather) so I'd prebooked The Hatton Arms for lunch as it is the only pub nearby after the slog of Hatton Locks!

This is a large gastro pub with a large outside area to exploit as well as the pub terraces which are now covered and protected from the elements by perspex screens. There was only one way into (and out of) the pub, via the front entrance.

We were a bit early, but our table was available so we sat down and enjoyed a pleasant couple of hours of, essentially, restaurant service. All very efficient as they had plenty of staff on.

For the evening we made our first return for a few years to The Navigation at Lapworth, which I'd pre-booked.

Again, there was a one way system in place and the number of tables in the bar reduced, but again, most people were outside.Bar service for drinks and table service for food, so not too different from normal.

Next day and Sunday lunch was pre-booked at the Fleur-de-Lys in Lowsonford, just a short trip down the Stratford Canal.

Again, strict enforcement of the guidelines was in operation requiring an extra long walk for pedestrians to get into the pub from the car park entrance! They were running a limited menu and drinks range, but the lager was cold so we were happy!

In the evening we got as far as Wilmcote, normally a two-pub village. Unfortunately, the Mason's Arms was closed and up for sale. This was not really a surprise as we'd been expecting it for at least 10 years. As for the Mary Arden Hotel, we weren't sure if it was open and, with it being a Sunday evening, whether we were too late for food. So, it was taxi time and a short trip into Stratford-upon-Avon for the evening.

Our first choice, The Garrick, was closed so we headed straight for the Wetherspoons. This was the first time that we'd had to queue up outside a pub, but we were soon inside The Golden Bee after taking care of the administrative chores.

After all the hype, we didn't have to order via the app and it was all fairly normal, going up to the bar to order food and drinks. After eating and a couple of pints we decided to go for a bit of a wander and have another pint in a different pub.

What a mistake!

We left at about 9:45pm and got to the White Swan/Dirty Duck just before 10pm to be told that they were closing. We knew that Encore was open till 10:30pm so headed there. At just after 10pm we were turned away because there wasn't room...there was! The Red Lion had closed at 10pm, so we headed back to Wetherspoons as they closed at 11pm...but...unbeknownst to us...they don't allow anyone in after 10pm. So we were turned away!

The moral of the story? Don't leave a pub close to closing time in the current climate expecting to get a last drink elsewhere, because you probably won't get it!

The thing that really got to me though was the smugness with which we were turned away (not the Red Lion) which will make me very reluctant to step through their doors once/if this crisis is over! Two early 60's blokes looking for a last drink wasn't going to cause anyone any heartache and yet they turned us away with repressed glee without any form of apology (or even apologetic tone!). Still...lesson learned!

Until next time!

UPDATE 3 : #008 Navigation Inn, Lapworth : 1986 to 2012

I have good news; the Navigation Inn is open again! It reopened about 4 weeks ago and the kitchen will be open for food on Saturday.

I popped in for a look and was very impressed with what I saw. The décor is light and the pub felt bigger. The uneven flagstones on the floor of the bar are still there, but everything else has a 'modern' feel to it whilst still retaining the ambience of a proper country pub.

There was one thing that really surprised me, though and the evidence is to be seen in this photo.

No, your eyes aren't deceiving you - that really is Guinness on a HAND PUMP! I was informed that this is the only Guinness hand pump in England (and possibly Great Britain)! I'm sure that if this is wrong, one of the beer geeks, sorry, I mean aficionados, out there will put me straight, but as a confirmed Carling drinker even I know that this is a rarity!

I'm glad to see that the refurbished Navigation Inn is open and looking good. Hopefully the good people of Warwickshire will appreciate what they have and make it a success. 

UPDATE 2 : #008 Navigation Inn, Lapworth : 1986 to 2012

Back in November I reported the closure of the Navigation Inn in Rowington and hoped that it would be reopening soon. Well, I have good news. It isn't open yet, but I had a chat with the new owner and he is well on the way to reopening in about 4 weeks time. This is what the outside now looks like.

I was driving past earlier today and, on seeing the new external decoration, I pulled over and took a few pictures. As I was walking back to the car I peered in through the window to gauge how much was being done to the interior. The new owner, Mark, saw me and invited me in for a chat. 

Mark is a no-nonsense Yorksireman who's been involved in the bar fitting trade for many years and lived in Warwickshire for about 30 years. His plan is for the Navigation to NOT be a Gastro Pub, but to keep the front bar as a drinkers area (no food) and to serve food in the rear room. His view of food is very much like mine - proper, good quality, English pub grub. For the beer drinkers he aims to have 4 or 5 hand pulled real ales, a couple of ciders and a decent range of lagers.

I hope all goes well for Mark and the newly refurbished Navigation Inn.

UPDATE : #008 Navigation Inn, Lapworth : 1986 to 2011

Just been out on our boat for the weekend and our first port of call was going to be the Navigation, but it was closed! I was shocked as it has always been one of our favourite haunts when we are on our boat, but according to the 'Towpath Telegraph' the current owners have gone bust - something to do with food hygiene and subsequent loss of business, I was told.

Hopefully it will be bought and reopened soon as it really is a lovely pub. Here's a picture of it from my 'arty' collection.

#008 Navigation Inn, Lapworth : 1986 to 2011

The Navigation Inn at Lapworth (or is it Rowington?) is the pub I have photographed most over the years. Outside it has changed quite a bit over the years, but inside it is pretty much the same - a welcoming local with a proper bar (complete with uneven stone floor) and serving excellent food.

 This photo was taken at lunchtime on 19th July 1986 at the start of a canal trip that would take us to Leicester and Nottingham. We paused to take in the delights of the Navigation (not for the first time, I might add) to await the arrival of Martin to complete our five man crew for the trip. Difficult to believe that we managed with five of us on board a 35 ft narrowboat for a fortnight...and we cooked breakfast plus evening meals on most days! Nowadays, being older and wider, three is plenty for a long trip.

Eleven years later (27th March 1997) and the pub still looks pretty much the same, but if you look closely you'll notice that all of the signs are different. This was at the start of our first ever Easter trip to Stratford-upon-Avon.

This visit was on 20th April 2000 and again the signage has changed. Now it is 'The Navigation Lapworth', despite the fact that we always walk past the sign saying Rowington on our way to the pub!

Now it is 18th April 2003 and the old mock Tudor look has gone to be replaced by the more modern approach of cream and natural timber. Inside, no change!

Moving forward to 21st March 2008 and probably the best photo I've managed to take of The Navigation. The pub sign is back and the plants have started to grow.

And finally...it's 25 years since the first picture...29th April 2011 - Royal Wedding Day! The plants are now well grown and the hanging sign has disappeared (again!). Inside there is still no change, but the pub is under new management. The menu is still excellent, but the Jumbo Cod isn't quite as large as it used to be! (But, is anything?). This is still the best pub in Lapworth (or is it in Rowington or even Kingswood as in Google Maps?) and well worth a visit.

In 2009 I discovered (on t'internet) a picture of the Navigation from 1915 and attempted to produce a contemporary shot showing it from the same angle. This meant that I had to take the photo from the middle of the road, but the results are visible here on The Navigation Inn website.

One final, final observation - notice how the street light hasn't changed at all in 25 years!!